The first thing that happens when you turn on your water ionizer is that it filters out many harmful contaminants in the water with its built-in filters, reducing things like chlorine, sediment, odor and organic waste. Next the filtered water passes into an electrolysis chamber equipped with platinum-coated titanium “plates” or electrodes. A small, precisely calibrated electric current passes between the plates to “ionize” or split the water molecules (H-2-O) into two “ions,” a negatively charged hydroxyl ion (-OH) and positively charged hydrogen ion (+H). All this happens under the precision control of a solid-state microcomputer that determines the exact voltage for each pH level. The key parts of a water ionizer are the filter system, electrodes or plates, power supply, control panel, and available options.
Plates/Electrodes – Like many things in life, size isn’t everything! The overall design of a modern water ionizer determines its quality not any one feature. The relationship between plate size, total surface area and power that is what counts. All ionizers have titanium plates electroplated with platinum, though they use different names for that process, like platinum-dipped or double-dipped. The thickness of the platinum varies. The thicker the platinum coating, the longer the titanium plates will last. Sprayed on plating is the thinnest and double-dipped is the thickest. Units with thicker, double-dipped plating are also able to offer lifetime warranties.
The best-selling ionizers have from 5 to 7 plates. A 7-plate machine performs about 40% better than a 5-plate machine and helps the machine last longer since more plates distribute power more efficiently. A 5-plate machine is adequate for many consumers, but a 7-plate design maximizes the pH and the -ORP and usually offers more advanced features and controls. Most modern water ionizers also offer mesh plates. Which increases the time that the plates stay in contact with the water. This makes mesh plates 5 to 10% more effective, producing the same output with less size and power.
The plates in a water ionizer need to be cleaned regularly to prevent built up of minerals plates, called scaling. Most systems do this automatically using “reverse polarity.” This simply reverses the charge to the electrodes causing them to repel any minerals that may be stuck to them. Then the cleaning system washes the plates in acidic water to remove any remaining scaling.
Power Supply – Like plate size, bigger isn’t necessarily better. Most of the top brands today use 200 watt or higher Switched Mode Power Supplies (SMPS), like those found in flat screen TVs or laptops. SMPS is a huge improvement over the transformers that ionizers used to use, running cooler and more efficiently. Ionizers with the SMPS power supply can also adjust amperage levels, letting you set the power you need for the hardness or softness of the water in your area. Any model with 200 watts or more power is adequate either hard or soft water.
Filtration – The results you get with an ionizer depend on the quality of your source water! Lower cost ionizers usually have just one internal filter, which is barely adequate these days. Most modern ionizers have dual internal filters. However, with all the chemicals, contaminants and prescription drugs that may be in water these days, a pre-filter installed before the water ionizer is highly recommended. If you have extremely hard water in your area, you may also need a scale filter to remove excess minerals. Electrolysis needs some minerals to work properly, so if you have a reverse osmosis system, which removes virtually all minerals, you may also need a remineralizer cartridge.
Flow Rate – The rate the water flows in an ionizer tells you how long the water stays in contact with the plates, which affects the amount of electrolysis going on. Most companies measure flow rates in liters per minute, but nobody really drinks water by the liter. For a more realistic idea of flow rates consider how long it takes to fill up a glass of water – for most models this is from just under 10 seconds to a little over 15 seconds. A difference of 5 seconds or so for a glass of water is not going to be the deciding factor in a purchase decision, but a slower flow rate in a well-designed unit can actually be a benefit since it increases water’s contact time with the plates, enhancing ionization.
Controls – The solid-state controls on most modern water ionizers are comparable, though there are some minor differences. Some units have more pH levels than others., but only 7 levels really matter. Some units have only pre-set buttons – others let you adjust the levels within the pre-sets. The main thing is that the controls should be easy to use and not confusing. Most have LED displays that are easy to read and some also feature voice prompts. Avoid older designs that still have a mineral port used to manually introduce additives to the water for increasing pH. Modern systems do not need chemical additives at all.
UV Light Technology – Ultraviolet light is a popular means for disinfecting and purifying water because it kills bacteria, viruses, mold spores, fungi, oocysts (cryptosporidium and giardia), and other microbiological contaminants. Though electrolysis kills most of these organisms anyway, the extra protection of a UV system gives some people extra piece of mind, especially if you live in an area with more extensive contamination. Recent testing has also shown that UV can be effective at destroying certain VOC’s (volatile organic compounds), although UV is not specifically designed for VOC reduction.
Under-Counter Systems – Several ionizer companies offer models that fit under the sink or kitchen counter. Some under-counter kits provide a plain dual faucet, one for acid water and one for alkaline water. However, if you want to change the settings on the ionizer you have to reach under the sink to do so. Look for under-sink systems with the electronic controls for the ionizer replicated inside the faucet so that the ionizer can be controlled right from the faucet.
For more information on how to intelligently buy a water ionizer that your family can confidently rely on for 20 years or more visit LifeIonizers.com . Remember, the bottom line is this: The only way you can be sure your family is drinking pure healthy alkaline water is to make it yourself!
This information has not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration, is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease, and is not intended to substitute for the advice from your own physician or health care provider.
Some scientific concepts may be stated in generalized or simplified terms to make complex principles easier to understand for the lay reader, however the underlying scientific principles and concepts accurately describe the theories they represent to the best of the writer’s abilities.